Flower window box construction do it yourself plans
r
Out with the old.
In with the new.
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For this project, I used a table
saw, tape measure, pencil, square. I used 1/2" and 1"thick cedar pieces. |
| The front and back of the flower box is 10 inches wide. 1/2" in from each side, I made a mark also. See photo to right. From this I start my dado to slide and secure the front & back boards. If you look at the "ugly" box above, you'll see the sides are not in a groove of any kind. No groove, no cool. |
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To draw straight lines, use a square like the one pictured on left. Very helpful for making cut lines. Can also be used to guide the saw. The top actually has a ridge that catches on the board and holds the square square if the boards outer edge is fairly straight. |
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CUTTING DADOS: FROM MY
LEANING
BOOKCASE PAGE.
This is how I cut the rabbets/dados (squared out grooves). Notice pencil mark for left hand side. I just kept moving it through with the blade set to cut the depth I needed. Just move over a hair with each cut. Absolutely not recommended to do. Once it is close to the right size, I test it until it is a tight fit. Don't want to cut it too big. |
BELOW PICTURE IS TAKEN FROM LEANING BOOKCASE PLANS. JUST USED TO ILLUSTRATE DADO CUTTING.
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| I used elmer's wood
glue and clamps to attach the ends. After clamping I also used
screws to attach the ends to the front & back boards.
At the right, you can see how the front & back boards of the box are actually being held by the rabbit or dado in the smaller end boards. Click pic to enlarge and see the dados. |
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The middle piece pictured above and to the left is cut to fit exactly the same width as the ends. I used screws to secure the front and back boards to this middle nailer/stabilizer board. However, in the front, I don't want to see hide nor hair of any screws...thus I toenailed the screws from the inside to secure the front board to the middle stabilizer board. |
| For the bottom I cut slats about
1.25". If you click the pic to right to enlarge, you'll see
they are not all the same width. No big deal.
Also, I spaced them out by placing the front & back one flush with the front and back of the box. Then I just spaced them evenly in between. Once again, perfection is not necesary. Next step is to screw those babies down! |
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1. Notice the second
stabilizer board in the middle. The one my drill is leaning
on. You can see it in the photo below as well. If
this is not used, your front board with develop a "belly" right in
the front. See example of a "belly" in the picture of the old
box at top of page. Also, please notice the drill bit & screw holder on the drill. This is one of my inventions and it works great. Speeds things up and reduces loss. Click here to learn more: www.bit-grip.com. |
| To hang the box, I attached a
piece of wood to the window frame that fits between the sides of the
box. You can see it if you click and enlarge the photo.
I then screwed the box to this wood. You may want to add a support underneath but mine did not need this. |
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Old flower box "en fuego"! Kind of sad but at least I got some good BTU's out of it. |
| Miriam didn't waste any time getting
it packed with flowers.
By the end of the weekend, we had four new flowerboxes and lots of growing beauty. |
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Testing the arrangement. In the picture to the left, Miriam has set the flowers in while still in their pots. She is giving it a test run. Good idea. |
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The flower boxes are such a beautiful accent.
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